Why Indian Jewelers Are Switching to Chinese HPHT Melee

India has always been the world's diamond cutting capital. But something interesting is happening in Surat and Mumbai: local polishers are increasingly buying HPHT rough from China instead of polishing CVD stones.

The Economics Are Simple

Indian labor costs are rising. A skilled polisher in Surat now costs ₹25,000-35,000/month. For small melee (0.01ct - 0.10ct), the polishing cost per carat can exceed the rough cost itself.

Chinese HPHT melee arrives pre-polished, calibrated, and ready to set. No labor. No yield loss. No quality variance.

Why HPHT, Not CVD?

Indian jewelers prefer HPHT melee for three reasons:

  • Color Consistency: HPHT D-E-F color is stable. CVD can have brown undertones that show up in pavé settings.
  • Availability: China produces HPHT melee at scale. CVD melee supply is inconsistent.
  • Price: HPHT melee from Henan is 15-20% cheaper than equivalent CVD from Singapore or India.

The Surat Paradox

Surat is still the world's largest diamond polishing center. But for lab-grown melee, it's becoming a trading hub rather than a manufacturing hub.

Smart traders in Surat are now:

  • Importing calibrated HPHT melee from China in bulk
  • Sorting and grading locally
  • Re-exporting to Dubai, Bangkok, and the US with Indian invoices
Direct vs. Via Surat:
Buying direct from Henan saves you the Surat markup (typically 8-12%). We ship DDP to Mumbai or directly to your facility.

What This Means for You

If you're a jeweler in India, the Middle East, or Southeast Asia, consider this:

The same melee you're buying from Surat likely came from Henan. Why not source direct and keep the margin?